Memorial Holiday Weekend on the Trail

Sunday

After two nights in a hotel we were both ready to be back on the trail.  However, the clean laundry, opportunity to watch tv in bed, and hot showers was much needed and served to reignite our spirits.  Over the course of the two days we had also had more than our fill of exploring Utica by foot, though we really didn’t visit many places other than Tramontane and the library the entire time we were visiting since there really wasn’t much else TO see.

Back in Ft. Plain I had learned of an interactive historical village in Rome, NY that would allow Little Prince to experience life on the Erie Canal during its boom period of the late 1800s, early 1900s. It also looked as though it was right off the path and therefore would not add to our distance too much or delay us by adding travel time. Getting out of Utica, however, proved to be just as confusing and harrowing as getting into the city had been. We followed city streets for a while, turned around at least twice, but eventually found our way on to back to the path in Oriskany and were able to follow the stone dust path until we reached Rome.

Rome, NY was very similar to Utica in that the road we needed was a four lane road with a rather high maximum speed limit. However, there were short access roads that we were able to use in order to avoid intervals of traffic. And at one point I decided to brave the side walks as Little Prince had been causing trouble attached to me again. This proved difficult when we encountered a McDonalds undergoing a remodel that included the sidewalk. But, we persevered and made it through, around, and over all of the obstacles to bikes that come from developing a car-centric city.

Turning down state route 46/49 there was supposed to be a separate path, but I didn’t see it and was more interested in finding the Erie Canal Village. As we rode along we saw signs for the village and knew we were on the right track, in fact we didn’t even realize we had been looking at it until we came upon the entrance and discovered that it was closed on Sundays. (Well, at least we have a pattern developing!)

I had been counting on the village being open and getting something to eat either there or at a grocery store along the way, having been thwarted in the plan it was time to bring out the handy-dandy smart phone and google a grocery store! Thankfully, there was one on the way to lock 21 in New London where we planned to camp for the night. So, we continued along looking for the entrance to the dedicated path.

Finally, we found the entrance and continued along the trail for a while until our handy-dandy navigation told us to turn back onto route 46/49. I debated following this advice but as I wasn’t completely sure where the grocery store was I decided to follow the lady’s voice and headed back on to the main road. It was not too busy and we rode along with no problem until we came upon a junction of state routes where there was a gas station. Apparently THIS was the grocery store google was sending us to. Not sure what to expect we went in anyway as we were getting pretty hungry and found a number of items to make a rather healthy, vegan, lunch including dried fruit, trail mix, nuts, olives, and hamburger buns. Taking our loot outside we crossed the state route and followed circle st and rejoined the trail (I knew there was an easier way than following the state route!) in less than a quarter mile and took a much deserved break at the crossroad to enjoy our bounty and the warm spring day.

Eventually, a large group of riders that we had earlier seen headed to Rome passed us as we ate headed our way and suddenly I became anxious that the campsites at the lock would be full and leave us with only stealth camping as an option. So, as we rode along the trail I, therefore, kept an eye out for good spots to camp if necessary. It wasn’t long, possibly three miles, down the trail from where we had lunch that we camp upon lock 21 and that large group of bikers. There were also a large number of people fishing along the canal and a number of tents set up in a group that looked to be all a part of the same large group of people.

While still in Utica yesterday I had called the lock to see if we needed to reserve a camp site. It turns out that while the website says you can reserve the phone number listed goes straight to the lock captain who doesn’t do reservations and so he had no idea how crowded he was going to be this weekend. Lock 21 in New London is distinctive as a campground because there are tent platforms available. While we could have just pitched the tent, I had learned that the polite thing to do was to first check in with the captain. So, even though it meant enduring the crowd of bikers and a boat going through the lock I waited patiently and Little Prince simply endured. This turned to our advantage because the lock captain remembered that I had called and offered his bathroom to us (this isn’t usually done as the bathroom is in the captain’s office) as well as the chance to refill our waters. This lock had neither potable water or bathrooms, so it is definitely one of the less luxurious locks!

Slowly, the evening progressed and the fishers all went home leaving only us campers behind. Unfortunately our fellow campers were not the most considerate of neighbors, and while Little Prince was able to fall asleep with no problem (other than the ones he imagined) I was kept awake by the drama unfolding more than 600ft away.

Monday

Memorial Day at last! Today we planned on making it all the way to the Green Lakes State park just outside of Syracuse. But it was also a day to honor the men and women who serve, and have served, in the American Military. It was with these thoughts that I packed our camp site up and got us on the road just around 8:30 this morning. The captain was not the same as last night but he was nice enough to let us refill our water and use the bathroom before we set out.

Live in peace

Library and museum

Navy/Airforce Memorial

Peace marker

As we rode along, the path took us through the end of one town’s breakfast for veterans, over a few aqueducts, and then we passed a memorial decorated with flags. It was strange to witness and pass by these celebrations and yet not be a part of them. At the memorial we discussed some of the major military battles that have recently occurred and it made me wonder what our memorials to those that have died in combat while fighting “terror” will be. Will there even be a memorial?

Durhamville Agueduct from below

Durhamville Aqueduct from the side

Water flows away from the aqueduct

Grate allowing water to flow into waterway below

Durhamville

Crossing the aqueduct

Early in the afternoon we were getting close to the state park and started looking for the bridge which we needed to cross in order to reach it. We saw one wooden bridge and figured it couldn’t hurt to see if this was the one we needed so over we went. Seeing no signs I asked a man coming down a steep undeveloped trail (that I was REALLY hoping wasn’t the path we needed) if this was the path to the state park. As it turned out this was not the path we sought. However, serendipity was starting to play her hand in our journey because the gentleman I asked turned out to be Rob Benedict, a member of the Mohawk nation and a musician with a long and colorful resume! Rob directed us where we needed to go and even took time out to play us a couple songs. It is no wonder he has played for Pete Seeger and a number of other well known artists! The sound of the native flute is haunting and distinct, there is a certain magic when played that hints of times long gone.

Leaving Rob, Little Prince and I continued on our way to the state park and had no more trouble finding it. It also turned out that my hunch that most people would check out on Monday morning was correct and so we were able to get our choice of campsites. However, the price was a lot more than I had been expecting at $15! However, it was nice to have potable water, toilets, and the Green Lakes were amazing to see!

These are another geological marvel left over from the time of the glaciers when waterfalls pounded the earth, creating deep craters that are now filled with water of a clear quality and appear to be crystalline green, hence the name: Green Lakes.

Our first glimpse of Green Lake

My foot feeling happy to not be in a cycling shoe!

Green lake

Green lake looking blue not so green,

Little Prince looking out over the water.

Round lake

The path to Round Lake

A bench on Round Lake

Round lake quickly and severely drops in depth.

The other nice thing about the state park was that there were kids for Little Prince to play with and be entertained by while I made dinner for us. We turned in around 8, which turned out to be early for a campsite since we were visited by another camper. The other problem was that this park was full of car campers and RVs so even late at night people were driving around the grounds with their lights on, which kept waking me up. Though, the icing on the cake for the night was when someone shown a flashlight in face and reported that they had found Little Prince crying on the side of the road because he had gone to the bathroom without waking me and couldn’t find his way back in the dark! Clearly, there was going to be little sleep for me now!

Changing Winds in Utica, NY

Breaking Camp

At lock 17 we learned that the lock captains work single shifts, meaning the locks close down for the night at 6 PM and reopen the next morning at 8.  My goal was to be ready to get back on the trail around 8 that morning, and while we were ready Little Prince was ADAMANT about not leaving until a boat had gone through the lock.  Fortunately for him there was a boat docked on the eastern side that had also camped out for the night  but must have arrived after we had turned in since I didn’t remember it from our exploration of the area.

It was getting close to 8:15 and with no movement of the lock Little Prince decided to go find out what the hold up was.  Up we climbed the metal steps to the control tower and chatted with the captain, apparently the boat’s captain had not put in a call so, Little Prince’s prodding was probably a benefit to them as well!

Now, if you think filling a bath tub takes a long time, imagine filling this lock!  The captain was incredibly friendly and answered all our questions such as: how many boats can fit in the lock at once (as many as they can squeeze in which has been 37 smaller boats or 10 larger yachts) where does the water to fill the lock come from (tunnels under the water are manually opened by the captain), and many more.  All of this took close to 20 minutes and as the boat was going westward, Little Prince and I descended the stair case and made for the trail.

On to Utica!

The day was gray and rain was threatening (again), my goal was to get us to Utica for lunch and then on to lock 20 or 21 for a night or two where we could wait out the Memorial Weekend crowds before pressing on.  However, per usual on a gray morning Little Prince’s feet were dragging and he was using every stall tactic he knew.  Plus, it didn’t help that I had some how reattached his handlebar incorrectly so that more tension was on his brakes, making it difficult to pedal forward.  Finally, we reached the end of the bike path where I had said he had to get to before he was hooked back onto the follow-me.

For the first time since starting along the Erie Canal we were no longer given the option of a separate bike path and were forced to go along NY Bike route 5 which follows NY state routes and some back roads.  This particular stretch of Bike route 5 followed NY state 5s and had a decent sized shoulder, however the availability of amenities for bikers are limited.  While on the path Little Prince could just go behind a bush for his bathroom breaks, along the State route bushes were few and far between so when the inevitable “I have to pee,” came I pulled into a used appliance store in East Schuyler and asked the proprietor if LP could use their restroom.

Thankfully they were accommodating and completely baffled as to WHY Little Prince and I were biking from Boston.  It was the second time I received the question, “wouldn’t it be easier…”  Sure, it would be easier but this completely misses the point of this particular endeavor and suggests a weakness in American culture: we are more focused on our destinations than the journeys we take to reach them.

While I was thinking upon this Little Prince and I set off again as rain began to fall hard and cold.

We made it to West Schuyler before the rain became too much to bear and I was able to find an overhang under which we could seek some semblance of shelter and wait for it to ease.  It was there that I rechecked the map to find we were only 4.8 miles from the restaurant in Utica I had selected, so close but still so very very far!  With the cold still upon us but the rain easing we set off again.  And while the weather was cold, both our tempers were hot and frustration was setting in as the way remained flat but became steadily busier the closer we came to reaching Utica.

The final approach to Utica in sight and it was with mixed feelings that we entered the final stretch to the restaurant, because Utica we found is NOT a bike friendly place!

Utica

A bunny that LP HAD to have back in Troy, posing with the Liberty Bell plaque

Utica streets: bad for bikes 😦

The main street was a four lane highway, no bike lane, and the speed limit was too high for me to ride as I do in Boston.  Therefore, my only choice was to unhook Little Prince and ride the sidewalks which were thankfully wide and lacking in a large amount of pedestrian traffic.  We made our way to the vegan restaurant I had found on HappyCow only to find it no longer in existence.  So, we headed for our second choice: Tramontane Cafe.

Eclectic decor

This place is just like visiting someone’s home!

Lunch in an armchair? We are home!

Vegan friendly and a great atmosphere Tramontane was the perfect refuge from the cold that had set in after the rain.  Little Prince and I settled into their couches and spent a few hours plotting our next move.  The rain had drained both our energies and all we both really wanted was to curl up on one of the Cafe’s couches and go to sleep (or at least that was what I wanted).  Instead, we made the trek three blocks to the Utica Public Library.

While every library is going to have different policies this was the first library I have EVER visited where there are signs informing patrons that 1. bikes are not allowed inside, and 2. the police will be called if a child under 10 is left unsupervised.  Not that I am in the habit of leaving Little Prince unsupervised but the floor plan of the library made it very difficult for either of us to accomplish what we wanted to do while there.  In the end we were able to work it out, but there was a great deal of whining and bargaining to get to that solution.

By the time the library closed both of us were rather exhausted and not looking forward to the weather forecast for the next day which called for more rain and thunderstorms.  So I caved, and got us a room at the Best Western for the next two nights since it was unlikely that we would be able to find a camp site once the weekend set in.

Changing Plans

I’ve decided that the best amenities in a hotel are microwaves, especially when in a limited vegan-option area.  That night, as is our usual routine I called my mom to check and we discussed our plans to get to California and the expected dates of arrival.  With the end of May approaching and us not even halfway through New York I am beginning to fear we won’t make it to Salt Lake City or any of my other points of alternate transportation to California.  Talking with my mom I was able to get a better sense of when she is expecting to reach California and her plans to see my brother and an old friend in Oregon before heading south.

Being a bit type A, I needed that information and have started to rethink our route.  As much as I’d like to make it through South Dakota to see Mount Rushmore and Crazy Horse my thought is that the Northern Tier route may be a better choice as it is already well planned out by the Adventure Cycling Organization and so there would be much less research and leg work on my part.  Plus, it would mean meeting up with my mom in Oregon, much sooner than California.  Clearly, there are options but I think the first thing I need to do is get us a flight home from the west coast, because that is one thing I know for SURE we won’t be able bike back from and still make my first class in September!

Thunder and Locks

Mohawk-Hudson Trail

The next morning dawned bright and sunny and proved to be a wonderful day for bike travel.  Little Prince and I breakfasted on donuts from X’s to O’s bakery and headed out around 8:00 in the morning.  The first few miles were through urban terrain until we crossed a set of railroad tracks and climbed the biggest hill of the day (which wasn’t that big) and we began our journey along the Mohawk-Hudson Rail Trail.  This trail begins in Cohoes, though the official Erie Canal trail guide which I finally found at an amazing bookstore in Troy indicates that the trail continues on into Albany.  From what I could tell however, this is not always a segregated bike path but rather follows a combination of city streets and a waterfront trail.  Cohoes is the start of the largest portion of complete bike path which we followed all day, stopping at well-used parks (even on a weekday) for bathroom usage, snacks, and to refill our water supplies.

The path was smooth and easy to ride and it was the first time in more than a week that Little Prince was able to be disconnected and only worry about pedestrians and other cyclists rather than the stress of riding in the city where a car or person can – and will – often appear suddenly from around a corner.  For me, riding without the added weight, and at the slower speed, equates to what I imagine the Sunday drives of yore were like.  I just amble along, sometimes singing or humming a tune or bantering with Little Prince.  While this sometimes happen when we are attached, there is a relaxed nature to the ride when we are separated that I have found incredibly enjoyable.

About 3-5 miles after being unhooked from the follow-me, however Little Prince had reached the apex of his stamina so we hooked back up and on we went to our first lock of the day: number 7!

Lock 7

Lock 7 on the Erie Canal was our first introduction to the purpose of the Erie Canal: to transport goods and people westward from the coast.  It is the source of the New York State nickname: the Empire State.

Boat going west

LP learning how it all works from the lock captain at lock 7.

The western gate.

East gate

One of many motors that pump water and close gates.

Boat entering the lock from the east.

At the boat level.

Leading up to the lock on the eastern side.

Dam adjacent. We thought it helped power the lock.

A boat that was heading east leaving the lock.

Lock E7 Niskayuna, NY Lift of 27 feet.

Western gates open to allow passage of a boat.

LP at lock 7.

Waiting for it all to begin…

A boat coming in to go east.

Camping for free

Back in Rensselaer, A and M had been full of advice and good tips about touring and two tips that I will forever appreciate were: all the locks are available to camp at, and if needed, camping on the bike path is an option.  And at lock 7 I was able to confirm with the lock captain that camping on the locks was indeed allowed and encouraged!  Sadly, it was only around noon that we had arrived at lock 7 otherwise we would have stayed for this lock had one of the larger grassy areas, a port-a-pottie, and potable water available.  But my goal was to get to lock 11 by that night, for we had great weather and the trail was easy.  However, a week of rugged terrain and then two days off the bikes lulled me into a false sense of ease and when Lock 11 did not look as inviting to camping as expected I continued to pedal us on until the sun was setting and we had yet to reach the next lock.  Around 7 we were both tired and cranky so when the bikes fell for the second time, we pitched our first bandit-camp on the side of the path.

Some people passed by as we set up around 8 in the evening but didn’t say anything and in no time the tent was up, dinner eaten, and we were tucked quietly into our sleeping bags.  My only fear was that thunderstorms were in the forecast.

Thunder

Close to 4:00 the next morning a large rolling boom in the distance woke me from a fitful sleep.  The sun and birds were not even awake yet and so I lay there listening, unsure if it were the thunder I feared or some other source.  I didn’t have to wait long to hear it again and suddenly an intense and overwhelming fear sent me into action.  While our campsite was well away from people and we were unlikely to attract the attention of animals or authorities we were not well protected against lightning, and my only thought was that thunder brings lightning.  Waking Little Prince from his sound sleep (I swear he could sleep through anything) we broke camp and packed the bikes in record setting time.  I wasn’t completely positive where on the map we were but I did know, from looking at it last night, that there was a crossing of I-90 within at least 5 miles of our campsite and so I prayed that it was an overpass and we’d be able to wait out the storm underneath it.  Thankfully, my hunch had been correct and we reached the overpass not long after the storm began in earnest.

Around 5 AM the rain was not as hard and soon was reduced to little more than a drizzle with the sun promising to arrive in full force soon enough.  The trail that early, and just after a rain storm was something no picture can ever fully convey but we did meet these folks just outside of Canajoharie:

Ft. Plain Museum

After meeting the herd of deer Little Prince and I moved on into Canajoharie where we hoped to find a restaurant with something to warm our bellies and a source of water to replenish our water supplies.  While the restaurant we chose was not the most vegan-friendly, we were able to get some potatoes and oatmeal before setting off for a hardware store to find some pliers.  Just before the hardware store Little Prince saw a sign for the Ft. Plain museum.  Since we had gotten such an early start and were already more than halfway to that night’s destination I didn’t have any qualms about at least seeing how much admission might be.

LP investigating the grounds.

Map of the area

Rear building and a model of the old blockhouse.

Looking out from the top of the hill where Ft. Plain once stood.

LP has enlisted in the revolutionary army!

Heading back down the hill.

Taking a detour into the woods to find the old bridge.

The old bridge.

Nature taking over.

As it turned out the museum was not only free, but came with an amazing personal tour of their exhibits from early Native American habitation of the area through to the days when the Erie Canal brought a booming business to the area.  And afterwards we went up to the top of the hill where the fort had been and explored a bit.

And… Hail.

The area surrounding Ft. Plain is much as it was in the 1800s: farming is still the major source of occupation and income for the residents.  Therefore, it is no wonder, as we followed bike route 5 back to the trail, that we began to see signs warning drivers of horse and buggy in the area.  Sadly, we didn’t see any of these but we did meet a man who spoke with a thick Dutch accent and was kind enough to keep us company as we put sunscreen on for the day that had started cold and wet was turning hot and humid.  The humidity was my first clue, the dark clouds rolling while we sat and ate our lunch at the top of one of many rolling hills was another.  But, it wasn’t until about a half hour after we were back on the trail that the  thunder started to roll.  We were close to Lock 17 by this time and the map also showed a nature park close by that was sure to have shelter so, back onto the follow-me Little Prince was hooked, as I raced us towards the promise of safety.

When the rain started coming down it was in large fat drops and on we raced, Little Prince pedaling his heart out. But it wasn’t long before the rain turned to hail and fearing injury I drove the bikes straight for the treeline and found shelter midst the undergrowth and sheltering branches of the trees on the edge of the path.

The hail didn’t last very long, thankfully, and just as it was clearing I spotted another cyclist coming towards us decked out in rain gear and clearly prepared for the weather with protective coverings over his panniers and clearly looking much drier than I was feeling at that moment!  It must have been quite a shock to see Little Prince hiding like fugitives among the trees, but he was nice enough to stop and chat for a while.  It turned out JW was coming from Buffalo on his first tour of the canal, to spend the Memorial Day weekend with family in Troy.  We exchanged contact information and I hoped that we might run into each other again.  Our two groups went on our separate ways as the rain slowed to a clear, hot, sunny day once more.

Lock 17

I had been correct that shelter wasn’t far, but no longer useful to us, Little Prince and I continued on to lock 17.  While there were plenty of quiet places along the trail that day to bandit camp, my reason for going to lock 17 was to see and take in the multitude of lessons available.  Not only are there geological marvels, the glacier potholes, but there are also mechanical and engineering achievements to witness.

At this lock the boats are raised by the greatest amount (40.5 feet) along the canal and it is truly breath-taking how incredibly huge this lock has to be in order to achieve this, especially when compared with the ruins of an original lock that was one of many to raise boats to the same elevation.

The old enlarged lock that used to be part of a series in this section of the canal.

Erie Canal Lock 34

LP at the center of the lock.

Where water would have entered.

Looking in.

Lock E17 Little Falls, NY Lift 40.5 feet

The woods on Moss Island

Our first sighting of glacier potholes.

Glacier potholes.

Glacier potholes

LP in a pothole

Coming out of the hole

Some local graffiti that seemed fitting.

The pot holes formed by rocks acting as drills.

Scouring on the rocks from receding glaciers

Exploring Moss Island

A tree is beginning to grow in the counter weight

East lock gate of lock 17 is massive!

NYS Barge Canal Lock 17

An information sign on the bike path.

With two highly successful days under our belts and our imaginations fed by exploring Moss Island for a good hour Little Prince and I turned in for the night and hoped for little more than lunch at a vegan restaurant the next day.

Just a warning…

The coming post is a bit long and yet only covers two days!  Thanks for sticking with it and I hope you – dear reader – enjoy sharing in our trials and triumphs.  As you have probably surmised this blog is far behind our actual positions.  I will do my best to update more frequently, just hang in there.  This stuff is just getting good!

Troy, New York

Having not had a chance to play with A ALL day on Sunday Little Prince was ecstatic to learn that the same day we were heading to Troy, A and M were also going to be running an errand there and we would be able to tag along with them. Where logistics are concerned I felt much more comfortable riding the road to Troy with A and M. There is safety in numbers when cycling, and when accompanied by an experienced local. M also provided us with a quick history and guide to the local scene in Troy.  The town is an old factory town from the days of the American Industrial Revolution and it is interesting to see that it is still broken up along similar wealth and status lines.

X’s to O’s

Troy is also home to an AMAZING vegan bakery called X’s  to O’s bakery where not only are sweet treats available (and with gluten-free options) but lunch items are too!  And I can not begin to tell you how truly amazing their food is.  But, I think my favorite exchange with one of the staff members came when I asked for my usual order (Little Prince knows this by heart now) which is a loose leaf chai tea with steamed almond milk.  In some shops this is a tea au lait.  In other places its something else.  And the reason I order this is because chai lattes are often pre-mixed with honey as a sweetener or sugar.  And, as a vegan, both are not acceptable.  But as a nutritionist and tea-lover these are also big no-nos.  Chai tea should bite, not be sour, but have a slight kick to it.  And the sugar added is often too much for me.

What made me laugh was that in the confusion of making the drink a supervisor came over to help and realized what I had ordered was a chai latte.  When I told her “yes, but I don’t want any sweetener.”  She looked at me with a horrified face, and exclaimed that other places put sweetener in a chai latte?!

Therefore, X’s to O’s, you will always have a soft spot in heart because not only did you carry the most amazing baked goods, savory and healthy foods, provided a whole smorgasbord of games for Little Prince but you clearly understand us crazy folks who feel there is an overabundance of sugar in our American diet!

Library

While more than 80% of our day occured at the bakery, Little Prince and I did also take time to check out Troy’s library (again, no pictures, sorry).  I was able to finish my thesis work and send it off to my adviser, now I just sit back and wait for comments! I also did a little work on the blog while Little Prince wrote in his log book and completed his school work for the day.  Once completed, he inquired of the librarian if he could also use a computer, turns out in Troy they require a child be 8 years old, so 7 and 3/4 just doesn’t cut it!

We didn’t stay much longer before heading off back to the bakery to grab dinner before they closed and then ate at waterfront park before meeting our host for the evening J, watching an episode of My Little Pony, reading a chapter from Dorothy and the Wizard, and falling fast asleep.  And it was a good thing to, because the next day we headed out on the Erie Canal!